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| tx2 adjust rear brakes http://www.taxi-driver.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14003 |
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| Author: | john77 [ Sat May 01, 2010 7:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | tx2 adjust rear brakes |
Hello,can anyone tell me how to adjust the rear brakes on my 55 reg tx2,i see the large hole in the drum when i take the wheel off? is it in there ?or at the back plate,,i also tried to take the drum off to check the shoes but could not get it off ..if anyone can help thank you john |
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| Author: | taxitone [ Sat May 01, 2010 11:06 am ] |
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hi john.. personal message mr t , he will will have the answer for ya guaranteed. |
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| Author: | john77 [ Sat May 01, 2010 11:47 am ] |
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Thank you i will try contact him cheers taxitone |
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| Author: | wannabeeahack [ Sat May 01, 2010 2:53 pm ] |
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the normal way is to adjust up with the wheel fitted, by adjusting as you move the wheel, after adjusting the handbrake, then the automatic adjusters can do thier thing (if all is greased and working) Rear discs were a quantom leap forward Quote: Early drum brakes (before about 1955) required periodic adjustment to compensate for drum and shoe wear. If not done sufficiently often long brake pedal travel ("low pedal") resulted. Low pedal can be a severe hazard when combined with brake fade as the brakes can become ineffective when the pedal bottoms out.
Self adjusting brakes may use a mechanism that engages only when the vehicle is being stopped from reverse motion. This is a traditional method suitable for use where all wheels use drum brakes (most vehicles now use disc brakes on the front wheels). By operating only in reverse it is less likely that the brakes will be adjusted while hot (when the drums are expanded), which could cause dragging brakes that would accelerate wear and increase fuel consumption. Self adjusting brakes may also operate by a ratchet mechanism engaged as the hand brake is applied, a means suitable for use where only rear drum brakes are used. If the travel of the parking brake actuator lever exceeds a certain amount, the ratchet turns an adjuster screw that moves the brake shoes toward the drum. The manual adjustment knob is usually at the bottom of the drum and is adjusted via a hole on the opposite side of the wheel. This requires getting underneath the car and moving the clickwheel with a flathead screwdriver. It is important and tedious to adjust each wheel evenly so as to not have the car pull to one side during heavy braking, especially if on the front wheels. Either give each one the same amount of clicks and then perform a road test, or raise each wheel off the ground and spin it by hand measuring how much force it takes and feeling whether or not the shoes are dragging. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake |
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| Author: | wannabeeahack [ Sat May 01, 2010 2:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
BTW, your drums are held onto the hub by a posi-screw (sometomes countersunk allen bolt) with the handbrake off (chock your wheels, put in gear) belt drum with big hammer.... it WILL (must) come off |
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| Author: | john77 [ Sat May 01, 2010 3:40 pm ] |
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thank you very much ,for much info much appreaiated,i am off to work now and ill have a go tuesday regards john |
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| Author: | ALI T [ Sun May 02, 2010 10:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
align the hole with the self adjuster stick a screwdriver threw the hole to release or tighten up the self adjuster(its a bit of a knack to it and hard to explain without physically showing you) basically your moving the 2 adjuster plates apart put the screwdriver at the inside edge between both plates in between the serrated teeth and move them apart from one and other(moving it one way will release the shoes moving it another way will take up the slack.) you can also do this from the backing plate,by removing the blanking grommet,but i think its much more difficult that way. you'll have trouble removing your drum without releasing the self adjuster as the drums will be worn,and will have a groove in them and the shoes will be in this groove making it near impossible to remove. if you give me your email ill send you the work shop manual for the brakes it may help you understand what your trying to achieve. |
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| Author: | ALI T [ Sun May 02, 2010 11:04 pm ] |
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check your email,file sent. good luck
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| Author: | john77 [ Mon May 03, 2010 9:45 pm ] |
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YES i can follow your information i printed off a picture of the backplate,and can see the adjuster,thank you very much. Can i get hold of a full workshop manuel,i have one, i got on ebay only shows some info,i would like one that shows the starter,alternator,exhaust etc,is there such a thing ?? regards john |
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| Author: | ALI T [ Mon May 03, 2010 10:06 pm ] |
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the one i got on ebay seems very comprehensive even goes as far as showing injector pump rebuilds and gearbox rebuilds. useless info i know, but its a pretty good manual for reference purposes. anyway! a screwdriver through the hole on the hub front, straight between the two adjuster plates,twist the screwdriver as though your turning a screw and both plates will be forced apart,just try it, once the drum is released and off the hub,you'll be able to see what your trying to achieve when you take up the slack on the shoes. good luck
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| Author: | MR T [ Tue May 04, 2010 7:40 pm ] |
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Top tip..... when you remove your rear brake drums and have access to the adjuster. you will see that one has a hole drilled in it..... to make it easier for yourself in the future drill a second hole near the front of the adjuster and paint them white..... you'll also find that if you have someone place their foot on the brake pedal whilst you are adjusting it makes it easier..... painting them white makes it easier to see the adjuster in that dirty old dark hole....... it is not uncommon to find that someone has over adjusted the handbrake cable which can then keep your brake linings apart which sometimes stops you from removing the rear brake drums..... the answer slacken off handbrake cable..... |
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