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 Post subject: Connecting Jump Leads
PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:51 pm 
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Left me top sign on overnight and got a flat battery. No real problem but looking at manual for my 56 plate TX4 it contradicts itself. The pic shows the leads connected to donor battery as + to - & - to +, the wording says connnect + to + but - to somewhere on bulkhead, but then in the instructions to disconnect it refers to the - being connected to the donor battery and to my vehiclebattery, both via the - lugs. In short does anyone jump their TX4 on a regular basis and if so how do you connect the jump leads.
Ta.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:39 pm 
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CambridgeCabbie wrote:
Left me top sign on overnight and got a flat battery. No real problem but looking at manual for my 56 plate TX4 it contradicts itself. The pic shows the leads connected to donor battery as + to - & - to +, the wording says connnect + to + but - to somewhere on bulkhead, but then in the instructions to disconnect it refers to the - being connected to the donor battery and to my vehiclebattery, both via the - lugs. In short does anyone jump their TX4 on a regular basis and if so how do you connect the jump leads.
Ta.

Just jump it as normal as in red to red black to black,loads of manuals say black/negative to chassis


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:00 pm 
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Thanks for the reply. Got it started ta.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:13 am 
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Location: Used to be in Lowestoft,now escaped.
I think this idea of clipping a lead to the bodywork instead of the battery and making it the last lead to connect and the first to disconnect,was to make sure any sparking would occur away from the batteries and minimise any danger of ignitingf any gas either of the batteries is giving off.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:48 am 
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Its easy, remember red to the left, black to the right, of the bolt through the neck :lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:48 pm 
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skippy41 wrote:
Its easy, remember red to the left, black to the right, of the bolt through the neck :lol: :lol: :lol:

how does that work if battery terminals are different ways around in vehicles ? Its red to red/live and black to black/ negative simple


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:15 pm 
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blackpool wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
Its easy, remember red to the left, black to the right, of the bolt through the neck :lol: :lol: :lol:

how does that work if battery terminals are different ways around in vehicles ? Its red to red/live and black to black/ negative simple


Keep taking the tablets :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:58 pm 
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Says the man with a unhealthy obsession with LTI,you stick to the skoda and worry about where to position your phone :roll: :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 2:07 pm 
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skippy41 wrote:
blackpool wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
Its easy, remember red to the left, black to the right, of the bolt through the neck :lol: :lol: :lol:

how does that work if battery terminals are different ways around in vehicles ? Its red to red/live and black to black/ negative simple


Keep taking the tablets :wink:

Well I got it Skippy. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:32 pm 
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They are very slow on the uptake on that side of the map Grandad :lol: :lol:

Blackpool just to help you think Frankenstein


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:18 pm 
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skippy41 wrote:
They are very slow on the uptake on that side of the map Grandad :lol: :lol:

Blackpool just to help you think Frankenstein

Your far too quick for me bob :roll:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:12 am 
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blackpool wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
They are very slow on the uptake on that side of the map Grandad :lol: :lol:

Blackpool just to help you think Frankenstein

Your far too quick for me bob :roll:


Come on Blackpool your down in the dumps about something admit it, or SWMBO has got you to do the odd jobs you have been putting off :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 4:21 pm 
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you wont beat terminal-terminal connections to ensure a good clamp+connection

BTW, not many "jump" leads qualify to carry full cranking ampage (which is why they can get hot)

put the red-red(+/pos) and black-black(-/neg) battery-battery

start the donor vehicle and rev it to 1200rpm, holding the RPM, this will add charge to the dead battery at 30-40amps, after 5 minutes try the non-starter car

at tickover the donor vehicle isnt putting any leccy into the dead car

i used to have a home made set of leads using really thick cables and welding clamps, 20ft long, they coulda started concorde, lost em somewhere

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:00 pm 
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wannabeeahack wrote:
i used to have a home made set of leads using really thick cables and welding clamps, 20ft long, they coulda started concorde, lost em somewhere

Probably still on the Concorde that crashed!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:29 pm 
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grandad wrote:
wannabeeahack wrote:
i used to have a home made set of leads using really thick cables and welding clamps, 20ft long, they coulda started concorde, lost em somewhere

Probably still on the Concorde that crashed!


yeah, the last time i used em it was on a CESM's Citroen

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