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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 10:34 pm 
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Posts: 68
Cheers Mr T, but neither of those links work :(

I've found a 800CCA battery with the right dimensions but it's an AGM battery - It's called an Optima 34R http://www.autozone.com/batteries-start ... _176379_0/

The thing that worries me is that it's classed as a "starting battery" and not recommended for cars where the normal accessory load is 250watts or more.

It's amp hours are a lowly 50ah.

Does anyone know if this will do the trick? I run zero accessories in the car but I'm worried about the Air Con being too much of a drain?


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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 12:49 pm 
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Quote:
Does anyone know if this will do the trick? I run zero accessories in the car but I'm worried about the Air Con being too much of a drain?



Fit a bigger alternator then if its draining the battery? i think there's two one for a transit and a higher amp one for taxis


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 2:12 am 
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Thanks Matty - I might do. Do you know of the bigger/more powerful one?

It's going to be impossible getting it here but I'm coming back to the UK in a couple of months and can pick it up while it's there.

Another bloody problem:

The remote locking keyfob only works if I'm within 6 foot of the car. Any further, no joy.

Is this normal? (I've tried a different batter but the same effect).

And finally, it it normal that after a few mins of driving you get a long beep from the control module? I've got the scan tool and the only error I get is for a PATS mismatch as too many keys are registered to the car. It doesn't just randomly beep for you guys?


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 4:49 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
Thanks Matty - I might do. Do you know of the bigger/more powerful one?

It's going to be impossible getting it here but I'm coming back to the UK in a couple of months and can pick it up while it's there.

Another bloody problem:

The remote locking keyfob only works if I'm within 6 foot of the car. Any further, no joy.

Is this normal? (I've tried a different batter but the same effect).

And finally, it it normal that after a few mins of driving you get a long beep from the control module? I've got the scan tool and the only error I get is for a PATS mismatch as too many keys are registered to the car. It doesn't just randomly beep for you guys?



I am not sure what is fitted to mine i will try and see in the week and get back to you, but euro car parts do a 75amp alternator and there's a couple from taxi suppliers on ebay that are 110amp alternators see below links

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Londo ... 5b1&000012

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LTi-TAXI-BLAC ... Sw-RRXCMY-


Not sure about the remote locking fob! mine does't work from much further distance i dont think! only a couple meter's probably. I think you can buy new ones and change the chip over? dont quote me though as ive never done it.

And never had a beep from the control module so no idea what that that could be!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 5:02 pm 
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So what was the outcome to all this out of interest? did you get it sorted.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:14 pm 
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What a f#cking mission.

So aside form the fact it's incredibly difficult to get parts out here, I ordered a cheap starter online, arrives, have my mechanic fit it, no life. Just clicks. Removes it, bench tests it, and it DOA, they sent me a duff unit.

Send it back, order one form my parts guy (twice the price) and....UPS manage to beat the crap out of it to the point it's all bent and one of the terminals are broken off.

Get a replacement sent from him and while they're installing the tiny (pathetic) spot weld on the ground terminal gives way and it snaps off. Have to get it welded back on. Then he installs it...and....it barely turns. But w're thinking it's a power issue now. Test the (1 year old) battery and it's dead, won't hold proper change.

So brand new battery in, starter turns but not enough to start the engine. Seems to be a power issue so chop the terminals off and install new ones....Slightly better but not enough. So take a jump lead from the ground to the starter body and get more life, but still not enough, then realise the jump leads are 20ft long, so we run a small 1ft cable from the battery terminal to the engine (secured at one of the bolts on the aircon compressor) and.....

.....result, starter finally working perfectly, engine comes alive in less than two secs! Seems like the chassis ground had too much resistance and the starter needed a more direct supply. Seems like the poor supply over time killed both the battery and starter.

However, now got a different problem:

Here in California, you have to do a Smog Check emissions test every two years. it's bollocks because the car was federalized and imported properly by LTI so meets all the requirements but they still make you do it.

This year, they changed the testing system to a thing called BAR OIS and whenever you try to plug via the OBD in and run the test, the system hangs on "checking PIB mode". Basically it seems the ODB on the Taxi and System speaks different protocols (which is strange because it will "see" the car and even do the basic diagnostics like clearing faults but all the fault codes come up as unknown as they are proprietary to LTI etc).

Does anyone have any insight on this? Would make my life a whole lot easier if I could just plug it in to a local smog shop system and get it to pass than driving a 2 hour round trip to a vehicle referee to get their sign off for lack of diagnostics.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 1:28 am 
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Location: Edinburgh
Quote:
This year, they changed the testing system to a thing called BAR OIS and whenever you try to plug via the OBD in and run the test, the system hangs on "checking PIB mode". Basically it seems the ODB on the Taxi and System speaks different protocols (which is strange because it will "see" the car and even do the basic diagnostics like clearing faults but all the fault codes come up as unknown as they are proprietary to LTI etc).

Does anyone have any insight on this? Would make my life a whole lot easier if I could just plug it in to a local smog shop system and get it to pass than driving a 2 hour round trip to a vehicle referee to get their sign off for lack of diagnostics.


Try setting up the OBD as a Ford Vehicle, when i plug my TX2 into the computer it comes up as Ford Transit.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:34 pm 
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Hmmmm, I'll give that a try. Thanks for that.

The only problem is the Duratorq motor was never used in the usa, and I'm not sure on the California smog test there's a way to enter the OBD type, it's meant to be universal.

I think the problem is that the new Smog Test is OBD 2 and the TX2 is only (according the label inside the engine bay) only "partially OBD certified" Whatever that means.

Anyone know if the TX2 uses OBD 2?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 8:30 pm 
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*bump*

Anyone know about TX2 and OBD2?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:57 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
*bump*

Anyone know about TX2 and OBD2?


Yeah its OBD2 mate.

I use FORSCAN for checking the codes on my TX2. I suggest downloading the program (i think its a free demo) and connect up the lead to your laptop and cab. See if it comes up with anything that will get you connected.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:58 pm 
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Location: Edinburgh
Sorry forgot the link

http://www.forscan.org


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 9:36 pm 
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Robin814 wrote:
LAtaxi wrote:
*bump*

Anyone know about TX2 and OBD2?


Yeah its OBD2 mate.

I use FORSCAN for checking the codes on my TX2. I suggest downloading the program (i think its a free demo) and connect up the lead to your laptop and cab. See if it comes up with anything that will get you connected.


Thanks mate! That's really helpful. I have no idea then why the smog systems here in the US won't read it then? Maybe becuase the TX2 isn't in the database it's giving an error?

Question about the forscan: Can you program keys with it?

I've got the laser 2000 scan tool (the proper LTI one) but I get a PATS error as the fault code and it's probably becuase there's too many keys registered to the car. Apparently I need to clear them all out and program them again but the laser 2000 doesn't do that, you have to hook it to the Frod ITS diagnostics and only massive ford dealers have em out here.

If that forscan does it, it would save me a ton of ballache :oops:


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2016 1:54 am 
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For anyone that's interested, this forscan thing is amazing (thank to Robin814 for the tip).

It's basically a full featured ODB2 software that you can use with any USB ODB cable. I got one off amazon for peanuts and the software was free.

To do PATS programming, you have to jump through a few hoops by emailing the developer for an extended license key (the standard version does everything apart from PATS/key programming - for security reasons) but they're really good about responding quickly.

If you don't have a scan tool or the proper MASI 2 programming cable, then FORSCAN is your best bet.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 5:10 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
For anyone that's interested, this forscan thing is amazing (thank to Robin814 for the tip).

It's basically a full featured ODB2 software that you can use with any USB ODB cable. I got one off amazon for peanuts and the software was free.

To do PATS programming, you have to jump through a few hoops by emailing the developer for an extended license key (the standard version does everything apart from PATS/key programming - for security reasons) but they're really good about responding quickly.

If you don't have a scan tool or the proper MASI 2 programming cable, then FORSCAN is your best bet.


Hi mate what cable did you get from amazon to plug into your laptop and the cab computer


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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 6:12 pm 
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Hi Mate, I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z ... UTF8&psc=1

Doesn't need any software drivers (although it comes with it) as it's a plug and play device (windows has the drivers built in).

Apparently you can use any OBD2 cable but it HAS to be USB - apparently the bluetooth and wifi ones are prone to problems. You may want to get a USB extender cable too - I have a jump seat on the front passenger side of my TX2 so could put the laptop there when programming the keys but I could see how having a long cable if you're in a proper garage/shop would be better.


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