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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:33 pm 
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Thanks Mr T - I know the engine isn't the greatest but I'm out of luck on that front. It's difficult enough finding a mechanic that can work on it here in the USA, let alone finding one that would be willing to drop in a nissan engine (even if I could find one here).

The Duratorq was never sold here in the USA so it's even more of a bitch to fix that back in the UK. Thankfully it's a pretty basic engine so I go to a diesel truck mechanic and he can figure most of it out.

I have a 680 CCA Interstate Battery but I'm thinking either the old glow plugs and/or knackered starter are the culprits. I'm probably going to try a better battery anyway. This one is the right size and spec with 730CCA:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/replaceme ... m/sli48h6m

Would this work?

Is it easy to replace the plugs myself? Do I need specialist tools?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:21 am 
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If you don't have a fault reader, and have an apple or android mobile, download Carista, and get an ORB adapter that plugs into the port , download carista first and it will explain everything, if you want to go further you can pay for the full version for about $30,00.
it a basic WIFI thing that reads all the faults and then you go onto rosstech site and find out what the fault is, you can also change a few basic things on the car as well


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:35 am 
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Is it easy to replace the plugs myself?......yes...
Do I need specialist tools?... no...

https://www.tayna.co.uk/249-Enduroline- ... P8479.html 95 ah

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:40 am 
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I fitted this battery to mine i think last summer, or the summer before.

Its 77 amp hour, and 780 CCA. Never had a problem with it starting.

http://www.battery2u.co.uk/type-067-096 ... ilver.aspx


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:11 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
Thanks Mr T - I know the engine isn't the greatest but I'm out of luck on that front. It's difficult enough finding a mechanic that can work on it here in the USA, let alone finding one that would be willing to drop in a nissan engine (even if I could find one here).

The Duratorq was never sold here in the USA so it's even more of a bitch to fix that back in the UK. Thankfully it's a pretty basic engine so I go to a diesel truck mechanic and he can figure most of it out.

I have a 680 CCA Interstate Battery but I'm thinking either the old glow plugs and/or knackered starter are the culprits. I'm probably going to try a better battery anyway. This one is the right size and spec with 730CCA:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/replaceme ... m/sli48h6m

Would this work?

Is it easy to replace the plugs myself? Do I need specialist tools?




http://www.kugaownersclub.co.uk/forum/h ... c8937.html

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 5:56 pm 
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Bugger.

That thread seems to suggest it's a 2.5 hour to replace the plugs and they snap really easily. Does not sound worth doing it yourself?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:27 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
Bugger.

That thread seems to suggest it's a 2.5 hour to replace the plugs and they snap really easily. Does not sound worth doing it yourself?



No, it won't take you that long; it usually takes me 20 mins. They are fitted into the head above each cylinder on the side nearest the battery. They have a wire or a buzz bar going across the top connecting them. The first thing you need to do is to check you are getting power to this wire when you turn the ignition on. The power only lasts a few seconds from when you start. You will need a test light, just an earth and a live with a bulb in the middle. If that lights up then check the heater plugs. If it doesn't then backtrack along the wire to find out why it's not working. A quick way to check the heater plugs is to take the buzz bar off so that they are separate, connect a wire to the live side of the battery and gently stroke the threaded top part of the heater plug. If it gently sparks it shows the plug is drawing power (working). Check each one and just replace any that are not working, or replace them all if needed. You only need a small spanner for the top nut on the buzzbar and a 10 or 12mm long socket or spanner to fit the heater plug.

Dead easy, never had one break.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:12 pm 
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fit TWO batteries, lets see the bugger refuse then

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 5:14 pm 
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Anymore news on this? did you get it going?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 3:44 am 
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MR T wrote:
LAtaxi wrote:
Bugger.

That thread seems to suggest it's a 2.5 hour to replace the plugs and they snap really easily. Does not sound worth doing it yourself?



No, it won't take you that long; it usually takes me 20 mins. They are fitted into the head above each cylinder on the side nearest the battery. They have a wire or a buzz bar going across the top connecting them. The first thing you need to do is to check you are getting power to this wire when you turn the ignition on. The power only lasts a few seconds from when you start. You will need a test light, just an earth and a live with a bulb in the middle. If that lights up then check the heater plugs. If it doesn't then backtrack along the wire to find out why it's not working. A quick way to check the heater plugs is to take the buzz bar off so that they are separate, connect a wire to the live side of the battery and gently stroke the threaded top part of the heater plug. If it gently sparks it shows the plug is drawing power (working). Check each one and just replace any that are not working, or replace them all if needed. You only need a small spanner for the top nut on the buzzbar and a 10 or 12mm long socket or spanner to fit the heater plug.

Dead easy, never had one break.


Thanks so much Mr T! Really doesn;t sound that hard and I'll give them a test before I try to pull 'em. The car only has 20k miles on it, just seems like it wasn't treated well. Do you know the bosch part numbers? Please don't tell me they're lucas or other brand, becuase I'm sh!t out of luck with them due to them being rare bits here in the USA. Bosch; I can get anything, but Lucas means ordering from the UK.

Here's my battery: http://www.interstatebatteries.com/p/in ... 2147384903

The weird thing is on my battery it states 770CCA, 930CA and 70AH, but when I go on to their website now it seems the downgraded it to 730 CCA. Should still be enough though right?

I went and got the battery tested - it came back as fine, just in need of a charge (660amps) as I hadn't run it for a few days and only did a short drive to the local garage to test it, but the long term problem remains: If I don't drive it for 3 or 4 days, there's not enough juice to start it.

Something is causing a drain. The only thing that's aftermarket on it is a Panasonic Radio/MP3 player head. When I got the car, it wasn't wired correctly (the constant live wasn't connected so it would lose the memory every time you powered down the car.

It can't be the radio can it? I wonder if the previous owner wired it that way on purpose?!?!?!? The only other thing I can think of is that if I try to run the Air Con while starting it, there's simply not enough power to go around. It will even stall when first started if I try to turn the wheels all the way to the extreme. I basically have to keep the AC off when starting it.

@Skippy - Yes, I have the proper Scan tool (the big lucas one with the 2000 module). The only fault code I get is one for a PATS mismatch, which I believe has to do with keys not being matched properly. I tried once to pair a new spare key with it, took forever and didn't work - when i tried to use that key, it immobilised the car for about 30 mins and only then the real key would work.

@Matty86 - Not yet. When I charge it, it runs fine but leave it for a few days and I might as well not bother trying to start it until I break out the charger.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 8:15 am 
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Getting bored .......disconnect the battery for a couple of days.....then try.....or borrow a bigger bat.......you want a bigger amp when starting....the faster it will turn over...

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 6:24 pm 
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MR T wrote:
Getting bored .......disconnect the battery for a couple of days.....then try.....or borrow a bigger bat.......you want a bigger amp when starting....the faster it will turn over...


Alright, I'll give it a try with a 800+ CCA if I can find one that fits. Do the AH matter?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 7:02 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
MR T wrote:
Getting bored .......disconnect the battery for a couple of days.....then try.....or borrow a bigger bat.......you want a bigger amp when starting....the faster it will turn over...


Alright, I'll give it a try with a 800+ CCA if I can find one that fits. Do the AH matter?

12V 110ah - 680CCA

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:20 pm 
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Now I'm getting confused;

I've got a 770CCA, 930ca, 70AH battery, but you're saying I should get a 680CCA, 110ah battery? So the AH matters more than the higher CCA?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:30 pm 
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LAtaxi wrote:
Now I'm getting confused;

I've got a 770CCA, 930ca, 70AH battery, but you're saying I should get a 680CCA, 110ah battery? So the AH matters more than the higher CCA?

http://www.carbatteriesonline.co.uk/det ... HD/battery or http://www.carbatteriesonline.co.uk/det ... HD/battery

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