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Any advice on the best method of making a decent repair to the bottoms of mt 2001 txi doors before they completely dissapear!
Last test i ground out the rust ,treated with rust cure, fibreglassed and undersealed the whole lot, held up for nearly a year but the rust has come back with avengence!
Do LTI supply repair panels (outer bottom door skins)? and even if they did i'm not sure if there would be enough of the original lower door frame to weld them too!
Any feedback appreciated.

You should be able to get another door from one of these suppliers.
Make sure that the drain holes are kept clear, if there are none make some by removing the door panel and use a drill or sharp chisel, from the inside out smooth off the rough bits and paint them

http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/londontaxi.html
baconsdozen has a nice guide here



http://www.taxibreakers.co.uk/?kw=taxi% ... 3godRQ5imw

http://www.breakeryard.com/cars/Engine/taxi.aspx

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LONDON-TAXI-CAB-B ... 1001r17744

Thanks for the info Skippy....................mine look a lot like Bacons doors and their only 8 years old! Not too sure about secondhand doors, really no way of knowing if they would be much better than the ones on here until the paint was removed.
Have to enrol on a welding coarse to keep it on the road!

When you have them sprayed have them coated with zybart. This keeps your paint in order and stops corrosion.

I was told you can't buy copy LTI doors or door skins by Leyton taxi parts.Geniune doors are approx £400 Geniune skins are around £140. I am about to get the bottoms cut off my TX1 to tidy it up having replaced the 2 front wings and bonnet. Once the rot is in its cheaper in the long run if you're keeping the cab to replace the body part.

I'm always amazed how much simple repair panels are.I made the sills for my fairway after being quoted £50 just to bend the steel I'd already bought (about five minutes work if you have a big enough sheet brake).I looked at the prices for repair panels for other bits but ended up making my own.Steel is reasonably cheap to buy.
Part skins can be fitted and plug welded or even glued.It's no wonder the fairway doors rot on the fairway as the seals to stop water getting in are hopeless.I don't know what the later ones are like but for a design thats had fifty odd years to sort itself out and improve,the rot on fairways is suprising.
Welding,with the modern machines is something that most can learn and whilst it might not be an idea to try and weld chassis sections or nuclear submarines with little experience,welding a door so that it'll take a bit of filler and look better isn't too hard.Lets face it without a proper seal to keep water out it wont be nmany years before you end up doing it again.There are some welding forums on the net,some even have videos of instruction to watch,have a go,just remember to disconnect the battery and alternator and any esensitive electronic bits if you are welding near them.The doors are easy,just take them off.
ps Dont try welding in galvanised steel,apart from needing the coating scraped off to get a decent weld,the fumes will kill you in a confined space.

Thanks for the input .
looks like i'll follow bacons lead and make up some repair panels......................£140 for a door skin seems a bit inflated,even if i was cofident their would be enough of the main door frame left to weld to when the old one was removed!
As for Ziebart, i thought TXI's came with this from new and it did nothing to halt the rust on mine

Just think how quick it would have rusted without Ziebart,

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Grandad,

You seem to have a problem, my last TX1 was over 10 years old, I had no rust on the doors.

You seem to have a problem, my last TX1 was over 10 years old, I had no rust on the doors.
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Thanks for pointing that out !!
I really believe this thing was a recon/friday afternoon TXI, there was slight rust on some of the welded seams when i picked it up from new and when i had to have the steering damper shock replaced at six months old the mechanic said it had an earlier model one fitted and he couldn't understand why!
In hindsight i really should have asked/demanded a replacement cab because they never sorted the rust problem and the steering has shook when it hits bumps since new(has anyone else experianced this) ?
Despite all its short comings its been the most reliable vehicle i've ever owned , never lost a days work through breakdown in 8 years and the only major mechanical failure was the gearbox bearings which gave up at 169,000 miles and cost me £70 to replace.