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 Post subject: Dual mass flywheel
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:56 pm 
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I know it's the wrong section, but I'm looking for a quick answer.

What is a dual mass flywheel, and what does it do? Does an Auto have this set up?

I'm still trying to track down the horrible vibration that I’m getting in low revs from the cab.

Internet searches seem to reveal the source of this is either the above DMF, or (as I suspect) the crankshaft pulley where the noise seems to be emanating from.
A ratchet system on the alternator has also been suggested.

I had the driving shaft checked, it was ok.

Ta.


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 Post subject: Re: Dual mass flywheel
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:57 pm 
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GBC wrote:
I know it's the wrong section, but I'm looking for a quick answer.

What is a dual mass flywheel, and what does it do? Does an Auto have this set up?

I'm still trying to track down the horrible vibration that I’m getting in low revs from the cab.

Internet searches seem to reveal the source of this is either the above DMF, or (as I suspect) the crankshaft pulley where the noise seems to be emanating from.
A ratchet system on the alternator has also been suggested.

I had the driving shaft checked, it was ok.

Ta.


I thought only the manuals had that f*cked up flywheel.

CC

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:07 am 
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A dual mass flywheel is supposed to stop vibration and judder at slow speeds. Well that was what I was told the other day when I had to fork out £500 for one and a new clutch. :cry: For a lot of cars it is possible to replace the duel mass flywheel with a solid flywheel if you wish. I dont think autos have a clutch and flywheel, they have torque converters. Well my autos do.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:10 am 
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It's supposed to reduce the vibrations when drawing away in 1st or 2nd gears. Prone to disintrigate with little or no warning. Mine went at 32k, took the starter motor (dust and siht) and wiring loom with it (tho' I suspect the mechanic fecked it up changing the DMF). Most manufacturers have a solid alternative available. Most taxi drivers I know insist on having one fitted when DMF inevitably goes south. Great how 100+ year old technology outdoes modern science.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:16 am 
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Thanks for your replies chaps.

A solid one was mentioned by another driver today, to which I just nodded trying to hide my ignorance of mechanics.

I may just go for a new alternator and crankshaft pulley to see what happens.

It's really starting to annoy me when I'm driving.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:23 am 
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does the vibration happen when you are stationary

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:25 am 
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MR T wrote:
does the vibration happen when you are stationary


Hi Mr T,

Not whilst the engine is idling, but if you put a rev in, you get the noise just before the revs come back down to idling speed . . if that makes sense?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:28 am 
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GBC wrote:
MR T wrote:
does the vibration happen when you are stationary


Hi Mr T,

Not whilst the engine is idling, but if you put a rev in, you get the noise just before the revs come back down to idling speed . . if that makes sense?
then that would suggest that this has nothing to do with your running gear.... something on the engine

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:31 am 
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I had hoped for that, but can't see anything that's evident. The garage had it up on the ramps, they're trying to get me to go down the new belt / tensioner route.

They were both done less than 8 months / 12K ago.

:sad:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:41 am 
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The easiest way is to take off the fan belts which will isolate.. water pump.. alternator.. and so on.... if the noise is still there..... than it has to be either... the bottom crankshaft puley.... or the cam belt tensioners ... have seen them go at 10,000 mile..... the parts are crap.... we usually buy the Parts straight from Ford's main agents..... they seem to be a lot better quality......

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:44 am 
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Cheers T, it's going in on Friday so they can have a look.

No doubt whatever it is, it'll cost a fortune. :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:45 am 
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GBC wrote:
Cheers T, it's going in on Friday so they can have a look.

No doubt whatever it is, it'll cost a fortune. :roll:

now you know why I do not like and do not work on TX 2 Ford engines....

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:59 am 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5oluT916ho

A fecked DMF


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:26 am 
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Interesting picture Skippy. The one I had to change the other day had a lot more play than that and the there were no bolt heads at all. I think it is safe to say that mine was really fecked. :oops:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:44 am 
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GBC wrote:
A solid one was mentioned by another driver today, to which I just nodded trying to hide my ignorance of mechanics.

If you can, and you intend to keep the cab for another year or so, a solid one is a must and will save you serious money in the future.

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