Taxi Driver Online

Does anyone know how to adjust the serpentine belt with air con ,tx2 55 reg,my belt make such a noise on tick over

if its the Duratorq then its the tensioner+belt kit you need

£125 plus fitting

Hi yes its the dura torque thanks for that info

Sorry to butt in as a newbie but I've had a tx11 from new, 6 years now, and I put a bit of dubbin, or shoe polish, on the outside of the belt every morning. Shuts it up a treat, especially when ticking over on the rank . When I bought my taxi LTI denied any problem and I had to find my own solution .
Regards, Nick.

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If it leaks try Captain Creeches Creeping Crack Cure

the tensioner makes a rumbling noise, also the bottom pulley can too, if the belt/tensioner is being done maybe get the pulley changed too

my mondeo needs these, and its got a knocky injector, but so far the DMF hasnt started banging....

Hey John, I may have an answer to this, but could you try and describe what the noise sounds like?


darth

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The Kilt wearing cabbie from Bath...
Who is most definitely a MAC!!!

You have to loosen the 2 x 16mm bolts off first, then use the adjuster bolt and locknut which is located under the plate where the spring is and tighten it up a couple of turns. Don't over tighten it though.

or why not jJust replace it . . . ?

I have the whole belt and spring tensioner done every year now, about £160 with a pukka Ford belt.

Makes sense.

Try a gates kit

http://www.roadrunnerautoparts.co.uk/Category.aspx?id=5

http://www.roadrunnerautoparts.co.uk/Pr ... px?id=7915

the bottom pulley can be had off ebay seller "TransitpartsUK" and "Transitpartsireland"

K036PK1640 - Gates Drive Belt Kit for Ford Mondeo 2.0L TDCi 16v



Description:
Gates Drive Belt Kit for Ford Mondeo 2.0L TDCi 16v Diesel Engine.

Contents:
1 x K036PK1640 Drive Belt.
1 x T38354 Hydraulic Tensioner.
1 x T36124 Tensioner.
1 x T36125 Tensioner.


Our Price: £99.13
each exc. VAT and Delivery.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-MONDEO-2-0-T ... leParts_SM

Typical, the minute I get enough nerve to reply to something the answer becomes out of date. My serpentine belt tensioner just went into terminal decline.

Because this engine is fitted into so many different vehicles my attempts to buy a replacement tensioner had a plethora of different things delivered, none of which were correct.

My solution was to make my own out of a couple of bits of angle and a 10mm high tensile bolt. First attempt broke after a few days but series 11 seems to be holding on. I think GBC has had some kind of conversion done, as his instructions bear no resemblance to anything I have before me.

The Fraud 'Sure-A-Dork' engine is plagued by many horible noises, the Mondeo forums are searching for ways to re-program injectors, LDV forums have people checking Crankshaft sensors, while Transit forums are busy extolling the problems with injector pumps. The LTI and Landrover brigades spend fortunes on fan belts and timing chains hoping to end the various clacking, rattling and rumbling noises of the 2.4 TX11.

These noises have become a lucrative source of income for a wide range of after market sellers, mostly for incredibly expensive solutions that do nothing to improve things.

The horrible noise, and stalling, that happens after a warm start seems to be because something triggers a fault code in the ECM which retards the ignition and goes into limp home mode. the answer seems to be to either leave the engine running or don't start it until it has gone cold, about an hour. If you do start the engine during the critical ten minutes to forty minutes warm start time then it appears best to leave the engine ticking over until it resets itself and the engine quietens down, about a minute is generally enough. If you drive off before the engine has stabilised then expect it to conk out, usually while turning right.

My feeling, and this is just a guess, is that it's a fuel problem, probably something to do with fuel temperature inside the pump, ie, not warm enough for a warm start and not cold enough for a cold start.

Fraud deny any issues with this engine, but, their advertising for the new improved Duratorq engine makes great play in moving the distributor pump, "to remove the stress on the timing chain", the same chain they deny any problems with.

As our version of the engine is no longer used by LTI they have no interest if sorting it, the same goes for Fraud, and LDV is kaput so not interested either. All that's left is for us to noisely soldier on the best we can. Nick.

_________________
If it leaks try Captain Creeches Creeping Crack Cure

Hey Tractor Driver,

In regard to your comment: The horrible noise, and stalling, that happens after a warm start seems to be because something triggers a fault code in the ECM which retards the ignition and goes into limp home mode. The answer seems to be to either leave the engine running or don't start it until it has gone cold, about an hour. If you do start the engine during the critical ten minutes to forty minutes warm start time then it appears best to leave the engine ticking over until it resets itself and the engine quietens down, about a minute is generally enough. If you drive off before the engine has stabilised then expect it to conk out, usually while turning right.

If you read my post from earlier this year you may well agree I found the answer!!!! In any case please read it and let me know what you think!?

Scroll down to the entry by me that starts: LATEST UPDATE!!!

darth.


http://taxi-driver.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13915

_________________
The Kilt wearing cabbie from Bath...
Who is most definitely a MAC!!!

a cold start/good hot start/bad (takes 3/4 goes) can require a "PCM Update" - had mine done at Frauds, £35 inc vat and it made the world of difference, on a cold start it would start but tickover low and not rev for 10-15 seconds.....

the injector knock is due to the ECU not correcting the timing as the injectors are "outside anti-knock parameter" (usually over 80K miles)