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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2020 10:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2016 11:18 am
Posts: 35
As title guys, I’ve got a (Tx2 2006) now I know the tx2’s are not the quickest, The problem is that the cab seems to lag, runs and drives but it’s really hard, accelerator seems really hard when you press,the other day had a flat battery on a rank, (changed battery now) cab behind helped me jump start it, now here is the weird bit, when it started and I got moving it felt like I was in another cab, the accelerator pedal seemed really light and the cab was really nippy gears were changed alot quicker and smoother, then stopped to get food about an hour later, started cab and it was back to the lag and heavy accelerator pedal,and taking a while to build up speed,, completely the opposite to earlier when I jump started it,this happened twice before where I started cab and it ran great, could it be a short circuit somewhere, or accelerator sensor any pointers what to check would be great .

Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 1:14 pm 
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Was just going to suggest you're in limp mode, but a quick search shows that you asked a question about limp mode in 2016, so I'm assuming that's not the issue?

https://www.taxi-driver.co.uk/phpBB2/vi ... =9&t=30409

Anyway, I'd written this below before I found the old thread, so here it is - it was the battery disconnection and running better when restarted that made me think of limp mode, but who knows :?

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I'm not a mechanic, and know even less about TXs than standard saloon cars :oops:

But at a rough guess I'd say your cab is in 'limp mode' because of some fault or other, so the power is limited and it'll drive like a dog.

You would really need to get it on a diagnostic machine and that should produce fault codes and tell you what the root of the problem is.

But that's maybe why it ran better when you changed the battery - disconnecting the battery would clear the fault codes, so it wouldn't be in limp mode, but when the underlying fault reappeared it would end up back in limp mode.

That might also explain why it's also run better after restarting the car - stopping the car and restarting it might also take it out of limp mode, but it'll go back into limp mode again when the underlying fault reappears.

When my 2006 Passat had done about 170,000 miles, it drove fine 99% of the time, but if you floored the pedal and accelerated really harshly for a few seconds it would go into limp mode, and thus be difficult to drive, but not impossible.

But after I'd stopped the car and restarted it, it was fine again, until I floored the pedal again, and it would just go back into limp mode. (I don't think simply stopping the engine and restarting it would do - it had to be properly shut down and maybe locked up for a few minutes - but it all depends what's causing the fault and how your car is configured for this kind of thing.)

(Never really found out what the problem was - mentioned it to my garage, but because it was easily avoidable I didn't want to spend money diagnosing and fixing it. But I eventually sold it to the garage, and they later said it developed a problem with the turbo, so that might have been the cause.)

Another interesting one was during the Beast from the East, when my windscreen washer bottle froze up - obviously not enough screenwash in it :oops:

But when it all thawed out it still wouldn't work, so assumed motor had burnt out trying to use it when frozen. But turns out that if you try to use it and it's frozen, the motor will be disabled, and a fault code will be generated. So disconnecting the battery was all that was required - that cleared the fault code, and the pump would work again =D>

So the pump was in a sort of 'limp mode', but disconnecting the battery simply cleared it, and because it wasn't caused by an actual fault, it's been fine since. And easier than paying VW mabye £100+ just to plug it in to clear the fault code [-(

Anyway, that's my best guess, but as far as the underlying fault is concerned, haven't a clue :?

But I suspect that if you simply disconnect the -ve battery terminal and reconnect it after a couple of minutes then that might make it drive better again, for a wee while at least. But no doubt it will just end up in limp mode again when the underlying fault reappears.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2016 11:18 am
Posts: 35
Stuart really appreciate your help and advice, the previous post in 2016 was another cab, I’ll disconnect the battery to see if that helps, if not I’ll take it to have it out in a computer to see if anything’s shows up, When I had a flat battery and jump started it seemed I was in a another cab, it was nippy acceleration was light and drive great, bu as soon as I switched it off back to same position it went.

I’ll update with developments.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 6:33 am
Posts: 6391
Worth a try, but I'm having second thoughts now - first time round I didn't distinguish between the jump start and changing the battery - I'm guessing that if you just flattened the battery it still wouldn't be flat enough to clear any fault codes, or something keeping it in limp mode, or whatever - even if not enough power to turn the starter, I would imagine still enough power to retain whatever info is in the car's software.

I'm guessing as well that your cab would have some kind of warning light if it was going into limp mode? Maybe not :?

And looks almost a certainty that even if disconnecting the battery might help, it would just be a temporary thing and would soon be back into limp mode, and the underlying fault would remain.

Anyway, good luck, and let us know how you get on [-o<


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2016 11:18 am
Posts: 35
Thanks Stuart
Ok so disconnected the battery and drove absolutely fine, quite nippy,accelerator seemed light and gears changed quicker and smoother, but as you suggested it went back into limp mode, so definitely something not right, the easy way to explain it as if there’s no turbo if that makes sense, maybe a hose leak And pressure is not building or could be something else, I’ll get it put on a computer see what codes come.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:13 pm
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My mate had power trouble and it turned out to be a leak (hiding)on the turbo pipe .


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2016 11:18 am
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Thanks mate, I’ve had look no splits or rips on the piping, but I’ve noticed that the Mass Air Flow sensor was covered in oil cleaned it and cans absolutely fine, only for a few hours as the sensor gets covered in oil in no time, there’s a lot of oil coming from the pipe which comes from the grill side, anyone know where that pipe is connected to as there seems to a lot of oil in there?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 6:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:44 pm
Posts: 10579
Location: Scotland
LondonCabbie7861 wrote:
Thanks mate, I’ve had look no splits or rips on the piping, but I’ve noticed that the Mass Air Flow sensor was covered in oil cleaned it and cans absolutely fine, only for a few hours as the sensor gets covered in oil in no time, there’s a lot of oil coming from the pipe which comes from the grill side, anyone know where that pipe is connected to as there seems to a lot of oil in there?

That's your problem ,


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