Taxi Driver Online

HI GUYS, having probs with rear brakes running hot. Have replaced master cylinder (twice) brake relief valve, slave cylinders at rear and replaced handbrake cable. Flexihose at rear is fine and plenty fluid coming thru. Drums still red hot after 20 mins. Renewed drums and shoes, shoes were backbevelled,and backed right off asis handbrake. Cab will pull away instantly when put in gear but drums are still red hot. Fuel has gone from 20p a mile to 24p. Gearbox has just had new governer fitted, but i fear i may damage it with this brake problem. Mechanics have ran out of ideas.........HELP!!!

Have you replaced the small handbrake cable............. and have you checked the brake pipe....... in case it has been damaged and is acting as a one-way valve.

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Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!

short cable is 6 months old brake pipes are ok

Wait until everything is cold then jack up the rear, start it up and engage 1 st then apply the brakes on and off, then the handbrake and see what one causes the wheels to stop or slow down once released, have you replaced the full handbrake cable, they have been known to jam after a few years use, even though they look OK
Have you also checked the hub bearings

thanks jimbo, yes full lti handbrake cable replaced, bearing are tight, no noises or leaks, no rumbles from halfshafts or diff.

Who's Jimbo?

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IDFIMH

What?

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Former taxi driver

I had major headaches with my last TX1 Taxi with brake problems, although mine turned out to be a cross threaded nut on the balance valve. Of course this was after the garage had replaced everything three times.

Have you replaced the drums with pukka ones opposed to pattern ones? They may be distorted. Also, there's about four return springs back there which release the brake surfaces, they stretch over a time, hence the reason they may be sticking on.

yep,lti drums and springs are ok.

DRUM BRAKE INSTALLATION
Position the trailer on a stable and LEVEL working surface. If possible, leave the tow vehicle hooked to the trailer
in order to limit movement as well as keeping the front end supported and level. If the trailer is not supported on
the tow vehicle, it MUST be blocked directly to the ground at the frame/tongue junction.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS THE TRAILER TO BE SUPPORTED BY THE TONGUE JACK WHILE BEING
RAISED AT THE WHEELS! Block the wheels opposite the side being worked on both front and rear so that the
trailer cannot roll.
NOTE: Using an adequate capacity floor or scissors jack, raise the side of the trailer. NOTE: Check under frames
for brake lines BEFORE lifting. DO NOT position jack in areas that may damage brake lines, etc.
NOTE: A. Tandem and tri-axle trailers should be jacked on the frame between the wheels, or directly under the
axle within 8” of the backside of the tire. B. Single axle trailers can be lifted on the frame just behind the axle or
directly under the axle within 8” of the backside of the tire (if lifting at the axle).
CAUTION- always support the trailer with adequate capacity support stands. DO NOT rely on the jack as the
only means of support.
1. Check Brake Mounting Flange
To mount brakes to an axle, the axle must have brake flange welded to the axle. Tie Down’s 10” drum brakes fit
standard 4 hole brake flanges and mount with 7/16” grade 5 or better bolts and lock nuts or lock washers. Our
12” drum brakes fit standard 5 hole brake flanges and mount with 3/8” grade 5 or better bolts and lock nuts or
lock washers. The brake flange connected to the axle must be square and concentric with the axle spindle. If the
brake flange is not properly installed, it will contribute to rapid lining wear and improper brake action. If your axle
does not have flanges pre-welded to the axle, see a qualified technician to weld the plates to your axles. Improper
welding can weaken the axle causing severe problems.
2. Brakes Installation
Brakes are marked as "RIGHT" and "LEFT". The "LEFT" brake travels on the driver's side of the trailer. Place the
brake against brake flange with the hydraulic wheel cylinder at the top. Secure with four 7/16” (grade 5) hex
head bolts for the 10” brakes or five 7/16” (grade 5) hex head bolts for the 12” brakes. Use lock washers or lock
nuts w/flat washers on the back side of the flange. Torque to 30 ft. lbs.
3. Installing Brake Drum
After the brakes have been correctly assembled to the brake flanges, TAKE NOTE which direction the spoon
needs to be moved in order to open the star wheel, mount the brake drum to the spindle. If re-using drum and
bearings, check for wear or pitting in the bearings and cup surfaces. Check drum for surface ware. Replace any
parts that show wear. Pack the inside bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease. Force grease through and
around the rollers. Place the bearing in the hub and install the grease seal flush with the end of the hub using an
arbor press or soft mallet. The bearing seal should be lubricated before putting it on the brake drum. Remove
excess grease.
042406,c143
Instruction #15384
Lubricate and install the outer bearing on spindle. Place thurst washer and new locking tab washer (if aplicable)
and castle nut on spindle. Turn the brake drum as you the tighten spindle nut. When a pronounced drag is
felt in the bearings, back off the spindle nut one complete slot and install cotter pin or bend tab on locking tooth
washer (if aplicable) and dust cap. Caution: Do not over pack hub with grease. Excessive grease may leak into
brake drums causing brake failure. Install wheels at this time. Tighten wheel nuts to proper torque as recommended
by trailer or wheel manufacturer. Recheck lug torque after first 50 miles. Spin wheel at this time to
make sure the wheel rotates freely without wobble or drag.
4. Initial Adjustment of Brakes
Adjust the brakes before removing the jacks.
A. With trailer wheel off the ground and tire mounted. Remove
the rubber access hole plugs from the rear of the brake
backing plate.
B. Inserting a brake spoon or flat screwdriver through the
access hole(s), tighten the star adjuster while rotating the
wheel in the forward direction. NOTE: Always spin wheel in
the forward direction as if the trailer was traveling forward on
the road. Tighten the star adjuster until the wheel reaches a
point where the brake shoes start to engage.
C. Loosen the star adjustor one click at a time while turning the
wheel in a forward rotation. Continue adjusting one click at a
time until the wheel rotates with little effort.
D. Replace the rubber access hole plugs.
E. Repeat this procedure for all braking wheels.
5. Connect Hydraulic Lines
The use of double flare steel tubing will assure tight leak proof connections. Anchor all hydraulic lines at two
foot intervals to prevent chafing and vibration.
6. Bleeding the Brake System
Use only DOT-3 heavy duty fluid. Do not re-use brake fluid. Do not use any other type of brake fluid other than DOT-3.
If pressure bleeding equipment is available, follow the manufacturer's instruction in bleeding the system.
(6a) Use only DOT-3 heavy-duty hydraulic fluid in the actuator. If using a pressure type brake bleeder to
bleed brakes. (This type of brake bleeder is available at your local automotive jobber.) Follow manufacturer's
directions. If manually bleeding the brakes using a heavy-duty flat blade screwdriver inserted in the hole provided
on top of the actuator near the front. Insert the screwdriver and use a pumping action to activate the master
cylinder in order to bleed the brakes.
To bleed master cylinder and brakes, install bleeder hose on first wheel cylinder to be bled; if tandem
axle trailer, bleed furthermost axle first, and the furthermost brake on that axle first. Use a loose end of hose
from the bleeder valve submerged in a glass container of brake fluid to observe bubbling (hose must be submerged
into clean brake fluid to keep air from traveling back into the brake cylinder).
Loosen the bleeder screw located in the wheel cylinder one turn, the system is now open to the
atmosphere. The bleeding operation for that brake is complete when bubbling stops. Be sure to tighten bleeder
screw securely.
Each wheel cylinder must be bleed until all air is out of the lines. Replenish the brake fluid during the
bleeding process so the level does not fall below half full level in the master cylinder reservoir. When bleeding and
testing is completed, make sure master cylinder is filled the reservoir and filler cap is securely in place.
(6b) When using drum or disc brakes on tandem axle trailers, both axles must be installed with brakes, Failure
to install brakes on both axles will result in loss of braking performance, overheating of brakes & wheel hub, and
significantly reduce brake pad life.
WARNING
Brakes should always be flushed with fresh water after using trailer in corrosive conditions. This includes salt
water, fertilizers and other corrosive materials. Before storing trailer remove brakes and clean
thoroughly. It is also wise to repack the bearings at the same time.
WARNING
DO NOT REUSE BRAKE FLUID. Always use fresh DOT 3 fluid from a fresh container. Failure to maintain proper
levels of fluid will cause brake failure.
Brake Trouble Shooting
Symptoms Possible Cause
Noise or brake chatter Improper brake adjustment.
Brake fluid or grease on lining.
Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearing.
Drum out of round.
Dirt on drum or lining surface.
Dust in rivet holes.
Lining glazed or worn.
Scored drum.
Loose backing plate.
Weak or broken return springs.
One brake is activating and the other
is not activating. Improper brake adjustment. (see brake adjustment)
Brake line is restricted.
Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearing.
Drum out of round.
Loose backing plate.
Faulty wheel cylinder.
Weak or broken shoe return spring.
Glazed or worn lining.
Loose lining.
Air in hydraulic system.
Dirty brake fluid.
All brakes drag. Faulty actuator.
Mechanical resistance at actuator or shoes.
Brake lines restricted.
Dirty brake fluid.
Faulty back up solenoid (if used).
Brakes do not apply. Leaks or insufficient brake fluid.
Air in hydraulic system.
Improper brake adjustment.
Faulty actuator.
Lining glazed or worn.
Brake fluid or grease on lining.
Dirty brake fluid.
Leaking wheel cylinder. Check and replace wheel cylinder and bleed brakes.
Seized wheel cylinder piston. Check and replace wheel cylinder and bleed brakes.



He is the ugly looking one, someone you send on a date with your mother in law

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jstjk29VAcg


http://www.wikipatents.com/gb/778429.html

There are two types of shoes that fit the T X one , one is the hackney shoe. which on the packaging is marked with a T........... and then you have the transit shoes which look identical but are slightly thicker............ what a lot of people do with these is to take them off and file down the metal section were it fits into the the top retainer, about a 8th of an inch on either side...

_________________
Justice for the 96. It has only taken 27 years...........repeat the same lies for 27 years and the truth sounds strange to people!

Having read the replys i would like to know what the fault was as i have the same thing on my tx2 the rear cylinders are new and shoes and drums and it get so hot within a mile or so i have also replaced the master cylinder and the brake reducer but still have the rear brakes locking on any help wouyld be welcome

thanks col

Ask either Mr T or Mike from Taxi Techs who both post on here.

Flexible brake pipes can fail internally with the inside rubber becoming detached or swollen and acting as a valve.The pipe can allow fluid through under pressure so bleeding is no problem and the brakes apply OK but the circuit retains pressure and the brakes can be partially held on.